Oyama Seicha tea master in a happi coat greeting a Shokuya visitor inside the tea processing factory.

Kobataen

Ujitawara, Kyoto

The Uji region of Kyoto prefecture is Japan's most prized area for growing tea for matcha. Founded in the 1700s, Kobataen is located in Ujitawara, a hillside micro-region within Uji. Kobataen is led by Hyo Morita, the 12th generation of the family and a certified tea appraiser and instructor. Over time, the Morita's began focusing on appraising tea, advising farmers, working with tea roasters, and supporting matcha grinding companies. In 1965, they completed the gradual sale of their farms to focus on the last stages of tea making. Today, Morita-san uses his expertise to advise companies in all areas of tea production and to make his own blends of tea.

An early Morita family owner looked out on the fields and reflected, "old fields, new fields," which is the meaning of Kobataen.

Kyoto is where tea culture was refined in Japan and Uji was its source. Uji matcha is revered for its clarity, balance, and deep umami. Kobataen's matcha reflects the accumulated heritage of Uji. Kobataen is not simply from Uji; it defines what Uji tea means.

I first met the export manager from Kobataen in 2020 on a Zoom call arranged by JETRO, the Japanese government's trade agency. Because it was COVID, all of the food and beverage shows went online. I met with at least ten tea companies, some through my own research, as well.

However, only one kept a hold on me, Kobataen. I kept thinking about them because of their history and location in Ujitawara. Uji is Kyoto's tea-making region, only forty minutes by train from Kyoto Station. Their simple website had a photo of an old hut for the tea ceremony. These were the kinds that samurai visited to accept the tea ceremony. I had the privilege of going to old huts like this so the image was very powerful for me.

I wanted matcha from Uji to make Shokuya complete. Despite the scarcity of matcha and our goals of sustainable, affordable products, I wanted to provide this classic, special offering to our customers. I felt obligated and excited. When I committed full time to Shokuya in late 2024, I restarted the email chain from four years earlier and was greeted by the new sales manager, Miyata-san, and the owner, Morita-san. I visited them in May, 2025 and, in January, 2026, we launched their ceremonial grade matcha, "Koto." It embodies Uji matcha and we are honored to share it with you.

- Henry

In the wine world, "estate" bottled wine is more valued than "negotiant" wine because the wine is made at the vineyard. In the Japanese tea industry, there are "soil-to-cup" tea makers, but they are often larger, more commercial companies. Even these companies contract with farmers, matcha grinders, or other experts in their specific field. The tea company's expertise then focuses on appraisal, selection, blending, and quality control of tea and the entire process. High-end tea stores, department stores, performers of tea ceremony, restaurants, and hotels rely on these experts and these relationships on selection, packaging, or other last steps. We are grateful to be working with Morita-san and Kobataen, such experts in Uji tea.

Founded as a tea farm in the 1700s, Kobataen is now managed by Mr. Hyo Morita, the 12th generation of the Morita family. "Kobataen," means "old field garden." Over centuries, as Kobataen grew, tending to old fields and new, they expanded tea production, as well. Like other tea makers, they found it impossible to do everything well and decided to focus on advising farmers to whom they sold fields, evaluating tea from start to finish, blending, storage, packaging, and sales. By the mid-1900's, Kobataen was no longer growing tea and had become a highly respected maker of matcha, gyokuro, and sencha. Kobataen also developed deep relationships in its hometown of Ujitawara, in the southern hills a few kilometers from Uji City. Ujitawara is known for super-premium matcha.

Mr. Hyo Morita, 12th generation owner and tea master

The 12th generation president, Hyo Morita assumed leadership more than thirty years ago. He is a licensed tea appraiser and instructor, and a licensed oolong tea instructor. He engages in every step of tea making, from contracting with farmers, tasting, evaluating, and advising during growing and harvesting, evaluating harvested tea, collaborating with local "kilns" on drying, selecting tencha to be ground into matcha by local experts, and selecting, blending, storing, and packaging matcha. He oversees last steps again when re-ordering to achieve the highest level of freshness and quality.